4/7 - 4/18/23 - Charleston, SC to Columbia, NC

Fri. 4/7/23, (Good Friday) - Charleston, SC to Murrells Inlet, SC (Wacca Wache Marina) (73nm).

  • Due to inclement weather forecasted for the weekend, most of the Loopers in Charleston headed North and snatched up all of the slips in Georgetown. We cruised another 15 miles to Murrells Inlet.
  • We finally got a couple of dolphins playing in our wake!
  • It was a perfect day for a long cruise.  The topography was noticeably different; marshlands gave way to lush, broadleaf trees and pines, and lots of Cypress trees wading among their unique "knees".
  • 3 dockhands pulled us in against the current and then directed us to the protected basin behind the marina to ride out the gale winds.
  • As promised, the wind and cold arrived, so we were glad to be hunkered down in our protected dock behind Wacca Wache Marina.
    • Wacca Wache - I like saying that! It is derived from the language of the Waccamaw Indians, meaning "Happy, Happy"!
    • This stop will always be remembered for its 1-1/2 day deluge of rain and cold where we spent Easter!
    • My cup is always 3/4 full though!
      • The cheapest, (er, I mean least expensive!) fuel we've seen: $3.58/gal.
      • On Saturday, we had a lovely dinner with John & Linda (Moon Dance IV) at Walters on the Waterway, just steps away from our slip.
      • The showers were wonderful, clean & warm
      • Sun-day was true to its name, so I was able to go for a nice run along the golf course and nice residential neighborhoods.
      • We watched Jon Rahm earn his green jacket as yummy Easter Dinner cooked in the crock: chicken, stuffing, green beans.
Monday, 4/10 - Murrells Inlet, SC to Myrtle Beach Yacht Club at Coquina Harbor (33.9nm).  It was a cool morning as Moon Dance IV & Port-A-Gee went back out to the Waccamaw River.  The first half of the day was a lovely river run through the tree-lined shores of a nature preserve.  2nd half -
rows of homes with elaborate landscaping and impressive docks. Also, water-accessible restaurants - the ocean buoy lawn ornaments were cool - they're huge out of the water!
  • Our early start rewarded us with a 12:30 p.m. arrival at Myrtle Beach Club (actually in Little River, SC).
  • Unfortunately, there was not time to enjoy a round of golf, beach or a swim in the marina pool!  It was a very busy and productive stop:
    • Uber dropped us at West Marine which was a short walk to Publix.
    • After stowing our purchases, doing laundry, and a failed attempt at a pump out, we had docktails with Moon Dance IV and Irish Hurricane,
    • We quickly had burgers on the boat before Odyssey came by for a nightcap.
  • Myrtle Beach Yacht Club is a large, 153-slip marina, surrounded by condominiums.
    • Easily accessible from ICW
    • Well-run, and capable staff
    • Very Clean showers & laundry
    • Pool - (we were too busy and cool to enjoy)
    • Restaurants nearby
      • Pump Out did not work, and we the power was a little glitchy.
Tues, 4/11 - Myrtle Beach, SC to Southport, NC - South Harbour Village Marina (30.4nm).  We left the marina around 9:00 a.m., and by 10:00 we had crossed into North Carolina - YAY!! Dolphins were there to escort us across.  The sun was shining, and the winds were tame - it was a lovely cruise on the ICW.  The scenery was a mix of homes, marshes and beaches.
  • Our 1:30 p.m. arrival at South Harbour Village Marina reunited us with Bruce & Lea Anne, crew of New Bearings.  They crossed their wake at Southport last week - Cheers!
  • Crews of Pub Trawler, Out of the Blue & Port-A-Gee toasted New Bearings on their new Gold status at Rusty Hooks, adjacent to the marina.
  • South Harbour Village Marina:
    • Right on the ICW with a long face dock for transients.  We were glad to secure a spot on the inside
    • We didn't avail ourselves of their amenities, but they looked great
    • Nice, very clean shower rooms and laundry
    • Staff was wonderful
    • Couple of good restaurants nearby - I don't think there was anything else in walking distance.
Wed, 4/12 - Southport, NC to Topsail, NC / Mile Hammock anchorage-Camp LeJeune (56.9nm).  It was an absolutely picturesque day along the North Carolina ICW.  We watched the topography change a couple of times.
  • Cape Fear was enormous, so an obvious port for huge ships.
  • Military Ocean Terminal Sunny Point has been a strategic shipping and military hub since 1725 and has played a role in supporting deployed units in every armed conflict since its creation.
  • Fisheries
  • Sparkly sea foam
  • Marshes, beaches, coastal homes
  • Out of the Blue cruised with us all day and then we joined 11 other boats in Mile Hammock anchorage at Camp LeJeune (13 boats total).
    •  We really just stopped at Camp LeJeune to get a drink of water - LOL!

Thurs, 4/13 - Topsail, NC to Beaufort, NC (Homer Smith Marina) (38.1nm).  Most of the 13 boats weighed their anchors to catch the 8:00 a.m. Onslow Beach swing bridge opening, downstream 3 miles.  We arrived a bit late, but because it was low tide, we were able to easily cruise under the posted 12' clearance.

  • Soon after crossing under the bridge, we entered a REAL MILITARY ZONE - the posted signs gave us plenty of warning:

IF YOU DON'T TAKE HEED, YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF
IN THE LINE OF FIRE ON TRAINING DAYS:

  • The rest of the day was uneventful, and damn pleasant!  Around 1:30 p.m., we arrived at Homer Smith Docks & Marina in Beaufort, NORTH Carolina.

    • Not to be confused with Beaufort, SOUTH Carolina (we visited last month).  They're spelled the same, but pronounced differently:
      • BEW-fort, SC
      • BOW-fort, NC
    • I'm just going to avoid saying it!
  • More Spring weather was forecasted, so we extended our stay another day in this quaint, historic town:
    • Many of the homes between the marina and town had historic markers indicating their existence since 1700's & 1800's.  It's amazing how well kept they are.
    • The waterfront is about 4 blocks of shops and restaurants.
    • We spun through the Maritime Museum an hour before it closed.
      • Didn't expect to learn so much about the Pirate Blackbeard!
        • He ran the ship, Queen Anne's Revenge aground at Topsail inlet in 1718. 
        • In 1996 the remains were discovered and are on display in the museum.
          • The restoration workshop across the street was very interesting too.
    • We enjoyed a very nice dinner at Moonrakers (no bar food this time!).  The elevated dining room overlooks Taylor Creek.
  • Homer Smith Marina:
    • Brand new marina, so very clean & sparkly
    • Immaculate showers, laundry & boaters' lounge
    • I lounged around and did laundry just like at home
    • FREE!:
      • Laundry, Oil disposal & ice
    • Smaller boats on lifts
Sat, 4/15/23 - Beaufort, NC to Belhaven, NC (58.0nm).  The morning started out cloudy with some drizzle, but cleared up as we crossed some very large/wide sounds.
  • Cap runs Navionics and I follow Aquamaps.  Sometimes the charts do not depict reality:
  • We stopped at RE Mayo's Seafood dock for cheap ($3.58/gal) fuel and fresh ($6/lb) shrimp. After beheading, deveining and shelling, they were delicious!
  • The tale of 2 marinas:
  • Belhaven Marina - The harbor host, Greg, was EXTREMELY hospitable and accommodating.  The marina sits on a long, narrow lot, and they have made the most of it.
    • The office/bar/outdoor lounge has 2 levels with comfortable seating.  Also, a gazebo with comfortable seating by the docks.
    • Lots of outdoor games and a grill
      • No courtesy car, but it sits right at the edge of town with nice restaurants and shops.
    • Great effort has been put into this property to ensure transients' enjoyment:
      • Free Laundry, including detergent.
      • Individual shower/restrooms, including nice fluffy TOWELS, shampoo, conditioner, bodywash.
      • Suggestion Jars in 4 different locations
  • Dowry Creek Marina - On Sunday the wind picked up from the South/Southwest and by Monday, it became too uncomfortable in our slip, so both Moon Dance IV and Port-A-Gee moved 6 miles north to Dowry Creek Marina, which has great protection from the south.
    • It was the right decision, plus we got to see the other side of Belhaven.
    • Very nice family-owned marina.  Their investment in the property is evident.  Construction of a new restaurant continues, but the docks and amenities were great.
      • Very accommodating & helpful staff
      • Courtesy Car (they let us keep the car after hours so we could enjoy a dinner in town - (just leave the keys in the mailbox when you return)
      • FREE - washers & dryers (3) each.
      • (3) individual-use shower/restrooms.
      • Large, elevated Boaters' Lounge, overlooking the water.
      • Large in-ground swimming pool - it was too cool to use but looked nice.
      • $5 for pump out - and it worked great!
Belhaven, NC - I was completely charmed by this town, and put it on my list of places to return.  It is small but is still happening.
  • My run took me through adorable homes, mostly modest, with the exception of the River Forest Manor mansion and appears to be associated the marina of the same name.
  • Spoon River Restaurant - was a very nice, artsy-vibe dining experience.  The crews of Melody, Moondance IV & Port-a-Gee lingered over a lovely 3-hour dinner.

Tues, 4/18/23 - Belhaven, NC to Columbia, NC - Alligator River Marina (42.7nm).  4 boats staggered their departure from Dowry Creek and navigated the straight-line Pungo River channel to the Alligator River.
  •  One we turned onto the Alligator River, we encountered 2' waves about 3 seconds apart. Cap burned some fuel to get us up the 10-mile river, but Port-A-Gee got pretty salty!
    • I mean, we did choose a boat that can get up and go for these kinds of conditions.
  • By 4:00 p.m. Alligator River Marina was lined with:
    • Moondance IV
    • Tug Bussle
    • Inshallah
    • Shiplet
  • Alligator Marina is literally a gas station on a 2-lane highway, with a marina in the back!  They did have a bathhouse and laundry, which we did not use.
    • When I checked in, the gas station attendant asked me if we were dining with them that evening - LOL!  I looked around and respectfully declined.
      • Mike, Captain on Inshallah told us we needed to try their chicken, it's delicious . . . when in Rome, it was pretty good!

Leg Stats:

Miles:  333 (73, 33.9, 30.4, 56.9, 38.1, 58, 42.7)
Locks: 0
Marinas: (7) Wacca Wache, Myrtle Beach Yacht Club at Coquina Harbor, South Harbour Village, Homer Smit, Belhaven, Dowry Creek, Alligator River
Anchorages: (1) Mile Hammock

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