8/25/23 - 9/10/23 - Detour Village, MI to Racine, WI (Lake Michigan) PORT-A-GEE IS GOLD!!!

Fri - Sat 8/25-26/23 - Detour Village, MI to Mackinaw City, MI (Mackinaw Municipal Marina) (39.7NM)

• Our buddy boats agreed on an 8:00 a.m. departure. We enjoyed a gorgeous day on Lake Huron via St. Mary's River.  Calm seas and sunny skies!!
• It was very exciting to see the Mighty Mac Bridge and lighthouses coming into view.  

Mackinac Suspension Bridge

• As we got closer, we were thrashed around by the huge wakes left by the speeding Island Ferries.

• Port-A-Gee secured a slip in the Municipal Marina while our buddy boats stayed at the adjacent Strait's State Harbor.
• The Municipal Marina is the aforementioned ferry boats' port, so we were alerted to all departures with the blast of their horn.
  
• 
  We walked around town.  It was pretty touristy, and kind of tacky, with LOTS of tee-shirt, ice cream & fudge shops.  It was kind of hard to find a good place to dine.  Mackinaw City has really benefitted from being the source of transport to Mackinac Island.
• The crews of Summer Place, Arabella and Port-A-Gee gathered for a casual dinner at Keyhole.  It was pretty good, and inexpensive.
• We returned to the boat to listen to Cubs drop a game to the Pirates 2-1
• Fireworks in the park = front row seat in the marina!

Sat, 8/26/23:  Crews of Arabella, Long Gone 2, Summer Place & Port-A-Gee boarded Shepler's Ferry on a cool morning.  Some of us chose to ride in the warmth of the inside, while others braved the cool temps to enjoy the ride on the top deck.

• We rented bicycles, and the sun warmed us perfectly for the 8-mile ride around the island.
• Stops included the Arch - Look at the color of the water through the Arch!  I did not retouch this photo - amazing Caribbean colors!
• Yes, it was a 207-step climb to the top.
• Devil's Kitchen is a natural erosion in the cliff. The wind is serious!

• Dan & Chris joined us at Great Turtle Brewery for a delicious lunch and a sampling of their brews.

• We walked to the Grand Hotel - Wow, it was everything I expected and more.  Absolutely, stunning, and kept in perfect condition.

• We were delighted all afternoon by the sights and sounds and smells (a blend of horse droppings and fudge!) of bustling Mackinac Island:  Horses pretty homes/gardens/churches, Beauty Queens, resting dog.

• Around 3:30 we decided to return to Mackinaw City - It air was still cool, but the sun allowed us to enjoy the ride from the upper deck.  The Grand Hotel was spectacular from the water!

• We concluded the day with a walk around a Craft Fair, and a cold one at Mackinac Island Brewhouse.  It was a long day, so we were glad to spend the evening listening to the Cubbies defeat the Pirates 10-6; moving them into the 2nd Wild Card Slot!!

Sun, 8/27/23, Mackinaw City, MI to Charlevoix, MI (Charlevoix City Marina) (46.4NM) Our 1st day on our home waters - Lake Michigan!

• We agreed on an 8:00 a.m. departure, and by 8:10 we passed under the Mackinac Bridge to Lake Michigan!
• Our buddy boats had different plans for today:  Arabella remained in Mackinaw City, Summer Place was splitting off at Petosky, while Long Gone 2 & Port-A-Gee continued to Charlevoix.  
• It was an absolutely perfect, sunny, calm seas day.  The beautiful blue water twinkled and delighted us all day. We passed several lighthouses, and a huge steam-powered freighter.

• Around 2:00 p.m. we passed under the Charlevoix drawbridge and into the Municipal Marina.
• As soon as we entered the harbor, the town's charm and vitality were evident.

• Chris, Dan, Brian and I started for town and soon discovered Earl Young's mushroom and boulder architectural designs.  Young fashioned over 2 dozen "mushroom" houses using indigenous materials.
• Boulder Park subdivision features homes with huge boulder exterior walls.

• Of course, we couldn't leave before walking on the beach.  I looked very hard for Petoskey or Charlevoix stones, to no avail.
• Petoskey stones are actually coral that lived 350 million years ago!  I wish I read about it more before we left - I definitely would have bought one.

• Charlevoix harbor is home to Emerald Isle, that ferries people and their vehicles to Beaver Island.  It's a little alarming having her on your stern!
• It's a toss-up whether to stop in Petoskey or Charlevoix.  Summer Place enjoyed Petoskey very much - maybe we'll catch it the next time around.
• First impressions don't lie - Charlevoix was a charming town that had a lot to offer.  The marina was fantastic!
• 4 stars for staff, facilities (showers/restroom, boaters' lounge/laundry).
• 5 stars for ambiance:  Splash pad, trout pond, music playing.
• We were glad to reconnect with a couple of Loopers we've seen at various stops along the way:  Miracle & Navigator.

Mon-Wed 8/28-30/23 Charlevoix, MI to Leland, MI (Leland Township Marina) (30.4NM).  We agreed with Long Gone 2 to catch the 8:30 bridge opening in the morning.  Little did we know that Emerald Isle would be right behind us!  As soon as we got through the channel, we moved to the port to allow her through - not that we had a choice!

• 
  Another beautiful day on Lake Michigan!  Full sun and tolerable seas.
• There was a little more activity in the water than the day before, but still very comfortable at 8mph.
• Leland Harbor came into view around 12:30.
• Lots of Loopers were already there and more arrived as the day went on:
• Long Gone 2
• Chaniel
• Boomerang
• Summer Place
• Queen Mary
• Cruisers on Legacy were frequent visitors to Leland, and recommended the Lodge's Golf Course restaurant, Bogey's 19th Hole.
• It was a beautiful country club setting, and the food was delicious.
• Seems the Deer family prefer the links at twilight (no venison on the menu).

• It was only a matter of time before The "Real" Lake Michigan showed up with cold blustery winds slamming 5' waves over the break wall.
• We all made the quick decision to stay in Leland for another day, and hope the seas calm down enough to continue south on Thursday.

• It was a good day for a run and laundry though!
• Kite surfers were celebrating the conditions, and we were entertained during docktails from Summer Place's Fly Bridge.

• 
  Dan didn't like how Long Gone 2 was being tossed around in the slip, so he set down his beer and went over to add more lines.
  
• Eventually, Joel & Brian did the same.
• Our layover day was perfect for a walk about.
• We started with Stander Marine, where I spotted wood boats in wet slips during my run.
• Marina staff was not very impressed with the treasures in their marina.  They simply stated, "they're just stored here, many have been passed down through generations.  Some have been there since they were new."  No big deal - LOL

• Van's Beach was beautiful and favored by kite surfers.
• Lake Michigan's shades of blue and green is like a fresh-water Caribbean.

• Fishtown was a delightful stop, we enjoyed the little fishing shanties that were converted to shops and dining.
• The Village Cheese Shanty had THE BEST sandwiches on fresh bread; and
• Of course, we had to stop in the 5th-generation Carlson's Fisheries for some yummy smoked fish dip.

• 
  Chris and Dan invited us aboard Long Gone 2 for movie night.  We watched, Captain Ron - I can't believe I have never seen it.  It was hilarious! 
  

Thurs, 8/31/23 - Leland, MI to Frankfort, MI (Jacobson Marina Resort) (35.7NM).  Lake Michigan laid down overnight, and we all agreed it was safe for travel.

• 
  These beautiful wood ducks came to to see us off.
  
• What a difference a day makes!  The Lake was flat and the sun was shining.  I kept my eye on the sandy dunes on the port -including Sleeping Bear National Shoreline.
• Brian kept looking across the lake contemplating a run for Wisconsin, but we stuck to the plan and continued to Frankfort.
• In retrospect, we should have gone.  Never squander a good day on Lake Michigan!

Left: Frankfort, MI Lighthouse / Upper Right:  Point Betsie Lighthouse

• About a mile from the harbor, a stranded fishing boat flagged down, Long Gone 2 (because they didn't have a radio, or any other safety devices).  They threw Dan & Chris a line, and they towed them into the harbor.  Look how calm the lake was!!!

Frankfort, MI Lighthouse

• We pulled into the Municipal Marina for fuel and a pump out, then made our way back to Jacobson Marina Resort where we had reserved a slip.  There was room as the municipal marina, but they didn't take reservations.  We like to know we have a spot even if it cost us a few more bucks.
• 
  Frankfort was a quick stop - Our walk around town took us to one of the top 10 sites of Frankfort, MI:
• The Frankfort Mineral Springs, which was essentially 2 pipes flowing with spring water.  The city erected a nice shelter around it.  We were hoping it was the Fountain of Youth, but the sulfur smell prevented us from bathing in it!

• The Admirals browsed the shops, while the Captains made their way to StormCloud Brewing.  Seemed to be the place because soon we were joined by the crews of:  Navigator, Queen Mary & Boomerang.
• Port-A-Gee & Summer Place had been discussing Chicken Parm earlier in the day, so satisfied the urge at Vita Bella - it was delicious!
• Conversation was consumed with "Go/No-Go" for the next day.  The wind/wave forecast was iffy, but an early start would give us the best chance.
• We wanted to be in a bigger town over the Labor Day weekend.
• Our stay at Jacobson Marina was brief, but it was very nice.
• They 2 young men working that day were polite and helpful. The shower/bathrooms were very nice and clean.  We didn't use the pool, but it looked inviting!

Fri, 9/1/23 - Frankfort, MI to Ludington, MI (Ludington Municipal Marina), (44.5NM). After much deliberation the day before, we decided to make a run for Ludington.

• Long Gone 2 wanted to cruise at 10mph, so they left at 4:00 a.m., followed by Summer Place & Port-A-Gee at 6:15 a.m. @ 15mph.
• It was still dark when we left the dock - we don't see the sunrise often, it was beautiful.

• Conditions were exactly as predicted, so Long Gone 2 got a better ride.  About 9:00 a.m. the seas kicked up to 2'+, but once we got up on plane it was comfortable.  I did remain seated for the 5-hour cruise though!

• We were glad to see Big Sable Lighthouse indicating we were getting close to Ludington Harbor.
• At 11:30 we were in the harbor jockeying for position amongst lots of fisherman and a dredger in the channel.
• I try to get a picture of all of the lighthouses we pass.  In the collage above is the 
  
  Ludington North Breakwater Light as we made our approach (lower left).
• I saw this one on Facebook, taken during the blue moon on 8/30 and had to save it! (Photo credit: Walter E. Elliott) 
  
• After tying up in our slip, we walked around the huge marina.  The fish were biting in Ludington!
• At the fish cleaning station, Chris and Dan inquired about buying some fish.  Apparently, they are not allowed to sell the fish, but generously gave them 3 bags of salmon filets - about 10lbs!
• We enjoyed a delicious fresh King Salmon dinner - wow! There was enough left over for each of to freeze 2 more filets.
• We listened to the Cubs lose a heartbreaker to the Reds in the 9th inning - TWO NIGHTS IN A ROW! UGH

Generous Fishermen Sharing their Catch of the Day - King Salmon

• Labor Day weekend was beautiful from a landlubber's perspective.  The sun was shining, and the temps were mild in Ludington, MI.
• It's cute when the guys coordinate their outfits. Acme Captains at your service.

• We called the local taxi service to take us to Amber Elk Ranch, where we were loaded into a wagon and driven through the huge property for an up-close Elk experience.

• The Elks were separated by age - 1-year olds were not with the big Bulls and Cows.

• The "Breeding" Bull's name was Perfect, and he sat majestically in cool grass.  I assume he makes his way over to the ladies whenever he gets the urge.

Perfect, the breeder

• 
  They sell Elk burgers, but I was a little conflicted about that!
• Long Gone 2 outdid themselves at docktails, with their yummy fried SPAM appetizer.
  
• It turned out to be our last docktails with the crew of Summer Place who decided to make a run for Muskegon.  We really enjoyed our time with Tracy and Joel, and we promised to reconnect in Florida this winter.
• Before leaving, they gifted us with a thoughtful "Wake Crossing" gift that included a bottle of Portuguese wine and a wonderful "Loons" book.
• Tracy had that Loon call down!!

Good Bye Summer Place

• Our stop in Ludington turned out to be 8 days, while we waited the Lake Michigan to allow us to cross over to the West side.
• Thankfully, Ludington is a big town with a lot to offer:
• We walked out to the Ludington North Breakwater and Beach.  I guess I wear dorky hats and matching shirts now.

• Rented bikes and did an endurance ride to Big Sable Point Lighthouse and then climbed the 108 steps to the top! The first half of the 18-miles round trip was great, but the winds pelted us with sand as we peddled into it!  It was fun, but we were all happy when it was over!

• The crew of Leave it to Wally drove to Ludington to have dinner with us - What a lovely surprise!  We had lots of fun with Devon & Dolly cruising from St. Augustine to Beaufort, NC.
• Crews of Long Gone 2 and Summer Breeze joined us as at Jamesport Brewery as well.

• I tried to find the Ludington Sculptures.  I spied about half of them.

• I really liked "Follow the Leader" that left a spot open for another player.
• And "Helping Hands" that stood at the entrance to the County Jail

• 
  The SS Badger Car Ferry was as dock for repairs and done for the season.  When it's operational, it crosses over to Manitowoc, the only other way to get across Lake Michigan is at Mackinac Bridge at the top.

• Checked out the Mariner's Museum:
• The first floor featured the lighthouses, including the original light from Big Sable Point Lighthouse.
• The second floor was a little untimely for our taste - SHIPWRECKS ON LAKE MICHIGAN!  We were preparing to cross that beast in a couple of days!
• It was interesting to learn about:
• "The most disastrous day in the history of Lake Michigan shipping.  Armistice Day (now Veterans Day) November 11, 1940.  With 75-MPH winds and 25' waves, a raging storm destroyed 3 ships and claimed the lives of 59 seamen. 

• Chris & Dan invited us for a pre-celebratory dinner in anticipation of our imminent wake crossing.  The y presented us with a bottle of champagne and a card that we promised not to open until we crossed.  They're so nice - I wonder if they're Canadian?

• By our 7th day in Ludington, we were out of things to see.  Luckily, we caught the 2nd to last Farmer's Market for the season.  Featuring really good live music performed by brothers who call themselves "Two Dudes in Flip-Flops".  Their steel drum music included several tributes to Jimmy Buffet tributes, RIP 9/1/23.
• 100% of their tips goes to Walk to end Alzheimer's in honor of their father.

Sat, 9/9/23 - Ludington, MI - Port Washington, WI (73.7NM)

IT WAS A BIG DAY - 84-mile run across Lake Michigan.  We waited 7 days and 8 nights for the right conditions.  It was almost as nerve-racking as crossing the Gulf of Mexico back in November.

• The sunrise escorted us out of the marina, and Cap threw down the throttle to 18mph; 2 hours later we were half-way across in 500+' water and no land in sight.
• It was a little lumpy, but our speed made it a comfortable ride.
• We gained an hour as we crossed into the Central Time Zone.

• 
  Just before noon we arrived back to the port where we were introduced to the Mainship Pilot, Port-A-Gee in August 2020.
• So that meant that we "Unofficially" crossed our wake, but we decided to give naming rights to our home port of Racine, WI, where we began our first Loop Segment in 2018.
• We got our last fill up of fuel - YAY (but we're going to miss those Southwest points)
• Walked into town and toasted our accomplishment with a couple of cold Spotted Cows.
  
• Cubbies fell to Diamondbacks; we feel the Wildcard slipping away.

PORT WASHINGTON HARBOR

Sun, 9/10/23 - Port Washington, WI to Racine, WI (40NM) PORT-A-GEE IS A GOLD LOOPER!! 

• We discussed hanging out in Port Washington for another day because we like the town, but ultimately decided we wanted to finish this trip!
• It was a rainy morning as we pulled away from the dock and through the fisherman, but as we got closer to the Milwaukee skyline it started to clear up.
• The we saw the familiar Windpoint Lighthouse - we could smell our home port!

• At 12:07 p.m. CST, Port-A-Gee and crew passed through the Racine cut into Reefpoint Marina and CROSSED THEIR WAKE!!! WHOOO HOOO.

• 5 years of segment looping + 1 year, 20 days start to finish = Port-A-Gee and crew has earned their GOLD BURGEE!!!  We will proudly fly the burgee on the bow as an invitation for docktails and tales of the sea.
• We were excited to see our old dock neighbors were at Reefpoint, so we caught up with Mike and Debbie on the dock.
• They live in a neighboring town to our "dirthouse", so they offered to give us a ride home to get our car.  We really wanted to start the celebration, but it was too good an offer to pass up.  Sooooo, by 8:00 p.m. we were back in our house and slept in our bed!
• We had that Wake Crossing Afterglow!

• It took us 3 days to get settled and properly toast our new Gold Burgee!
• Thanks to the crew of Carpe Diem for coming by to take pics an toast with the Portuguese wine given to us by Summer Place!!!

WHAT NOW??????

Leg Stats:  

Miles: (346.40NM) 39.7, 46.4, 30.4, 36, 35.7, 44.5, 73.7, 40

Marinas: (7) Mackinaw Municipal, Charlevoix City, Leland Township, Jacobson Marina Resort/Frankfort, Ludington Municipal Marina, Port Washington Marina, Reefpoint Marina/Racine, WI

Locks: (0)