3/16 - 26/23 - Jacksonville, FL to Hilton Head Island, SC (Jekyll Island & Savannah)

Thurs, 3/16 - Jacksonville Free Dock to Cumberland Anchorage (25.8nm).  It dropped to low 40's overnight.  I had to pull out the big blankets for the first time since October.  Maybe we started our northern passage a few weeks too early?

Somewhere along the way, someone mentioned that the East Coast part of the Loop is great, and we assured us that we were going to love it!  WELL, so far so good.  Ever since we emerged from Lake Okeechobee, it has been endless sightseeing!

• Continuing our journey north on the Atlantic ICW with the Atlantic Ocean ever-present on our starboard.
• AT 12:30 PM EDT, we finally crossed the Florida/Georgia Border!
• We had been in Florida since November 12, 2022!
• Combining our Keys trip in 2021 to this trip - we have navigated the entire 825 miles of Florida coastline (+Keys) panhandle to peninsula hugged by the Gulf of Mexico and Atlantic Ocean.  Every inch has been a treasure.
• Around 1:30pm all of the Loopers from the Jacksonville City dock dropped their anchors in Cumberland Sound:
• New Bearings
• Runaway
• Aluya
• Leave It To Wally
• Port-a-Gee
• Later Volition joined in!  The last time we saw them was at Green Turtle Bay in Grand Rivers, KY
•  Cumberland Island was A M A Z I N G!!!
• As we were making our approach, we already saw wild horses on the beach!  The brochure got it right this time!
• We tied our dinghies up to the Cumberland Island National Seashore passenger ferry dock and paid our $10/each entry fees.
• Devin, Dolly, Brian and I opted for the River Trail that goes to the Dungeness Ruins.
• First, we saw huge live oaks dripping with Spanish Moss, creating a dense canopy - breathtaking!
• Next, Armadillos were rooting around in the leaves, and could care less that we were there.
• Then, wild horses, herds of wild horses grazing on the grounds.
• 
  We entered the small museum to learn little more about the history.
• The Pittsburgh Carnegies made this island their home in 1881-1959 until a suspicious fire tore through the mansion leaving it in ruins, which is the way it appears today.
• The Northern end of the island boasts the First African Baptist Church, built in 1893 and is one of the settlement's few surviving structures.

• After a 3-mile walk around the Island we hopped back into our dinghy for dinner on board.
• But first, we stopped by Volition for a beer and catch up with Eamonn and Rhonda.

Fri, 3/17 - Cumberland Anchorage to Jekyll Island (24.5nm). Happy St. Patrick's Day!

• As we were departing Cumberland Sound, we were hoping to catch a submarine emerging from the Kings Bay Naval Submarine Base on the western shore of Cumberland Island.
• We had to settle for the cool degaussing chambers, and the huge coastguard ships keeping watch.

• The predicted winds and our desire to check out Jekyll Island motivated us to get an early start.  by 8:00 a.m. we back on the ICW cruising along.

• 

  Run Aground :(

  At mm701, we encountered a 45' Cruisers that ran aground.  We hailed them on the radio, but there was little we could do other than offer moral support. The tide was going out, and within 10 minutes, there was visibly less water - they were not going to get off.  We made sure they were secure and continued on.
• Good News!  Around 4:00p.m. the tide rose enough for them to float off, and they joined us on the Jekyll Island Dock with no obvious issues.
• The crew has been living on their boat for 14 years - they were not novices.  It can happen to anyone.
• Around mm696, we began to feel deep rollers characteristic of the Ocean.  As we neared St. Andrews Sound it looked and felt like the Ocean! It was equally scary and exciting!  Another 4 miles brought us to Jekyll Creek and over to the marina.
• The Harbor Master & dock hands expertly brought in 5 boats, challenged by high winds, fast current, and angry waves.
• We set up Brian's ebike and I grabbed one of the complimentary marina bicycles to cover about 5 miles of the island.  The island is very run/walk/bike-friendly.  25 miles of trails run along the main roads, shopping district, maritime forest, and beaches.
• The historic district cleverly converted circa 1890-1910 mansions and works-structures (and replicas) into retail spaces.   The island is dotted with 34 historic structures that have been restored and meticulously maintained.
• I love how the path does not interfere with the Live Oak's will - you have to duck out of the way of some of the branches.  The shared/lateral root system is amazing to see.

• 

  
  

  Loopers gathered at Wee Pub for St. Patrick's Day Hooley.
• Leave It To Wally
• New Bearings
• Runaway
• Port-A-Gee

Sat/Sun 3/18-19 - Jekyll Island - It rained overnight - real hard, and it never really quit all day Saturday.

• We dawdled around the boat most of the day and then joined Leave It To Wally & New Bearings for dinner at the marina restaurant, Zachry's.
• Sunday morning, we woke to low 40's but bright sun! It was a good day for Brian to give Port-A-Gee a bath and I enjoyed a good run and did laundry.

After chores we used the complimentary golf cart to go to the far-reaches of the Island.  It was cold, so our walk on the beaches was very brief.

Jekyll Island Marina:

• Floating docks:
• We were on the face dock on the river.  For the most part it was fine, but we did get rocked occasionally.
• Runaway was directed to an inside slip, and Captain Chris indicated that it wasn't easy getting in there, he expressed concern about getting out.
• Experienced, friendly, helpful staff
• Onsite restaurant, Zachry's
• Free use of bicycles and golf carts
• Pool & hot tub
• Laundry
• I complained about Lamb Yacht Center's washing machines increasing fee by size of the load.  Jekyll had the same, maybe it's a thing I'll have to get used to!
• 3 single-user shower rooms
• The water temperature was just barely warm enough to enjoy a shower.  I guess this keeps the turnover moving!
• They could have used more attention from the cleaning crew.

Mon, 3/20 - Jekyll Island to Crescent River Anchorage (36nm). It took 2 dockhands to hold the bow in while Cap pushed the stern into the East River without touching the boats docked at our bow and stern.  The wind was blowing, and it was really cold!

• About 10 miles into our day, we were going through Brunswick when a Coast Guard Response Vessel indicated they were going to board.  At first we were a little irritated, but when we realized it was just a harmless safety check it was kind of an event!
• Further softened by Petty Officer Showers being from Illinois.
• They instructed us to maintain our speed as they sidled up to us and two hunky Coast Guard Petty Officers stepped off their boat and onto ours - with their big black boots on.  I guess they didn't see our "Remove Your Shoes" rug.
• Seems I spent the entire ordeal snapping pictures!! - Smile, you're going to be featured on my blog!

• 
  We were escorted by a squabble of Laughing Gulls most of the day.  It was kind of amusing to see them behind.
  
• We ended our day at a lovely anchorage on the Crescent River.
• Just before dark, Leave It To Wally joined us in the anchorage.

Crescent River

Tues, 3/21 - Crescent River to Walburg Creek Anchorage (19.1nm).  It was chilly overnight, but warmer than the day before.  Brian got the generator, space heater and coffee going and by 9:30 we headed out on a beautiful sunny day, with Leave It To Wally not too far behind.

• As we approached Sapelo Sound, we started to feel the familiar ocean rollers, but they quickly became 2', 3' & 4' waves that were close together. Each time the bow crashed down into a wave, a wall of water came up and over. The route required a port-side turn which put the waves on our beam. This was a little beyond our fair-weather-boater threshold.
• New Bearings was a couple of miles ahead of us and they were reporting conditions back to Port-A-Gee and Leave It To Wally.
• As New Bearings headed into the next sound - St. Catherines, Lea Anne reported back that it was "Brutal" and then said they "thought" their 43' Nordic Tug might have gone airborne!  That was enough for us, we turned around and found refuge in Walburg Creek.
• It was only 1:00, but we all agreed we would rather burn a day than suffer through another rough Sound.
• Both crews had a hard time getting the anchors to bite.  While moving to another spot, Leave It To Wally got his anchor buoy line wrapped around his prop.
• Devin had to go into the frigid water for about 30 minutes to untangle it!  The guy's got balls! (or does he?? LOL)

Leave It To Wally

• The rest of the day was uneventful.
• Since we were there for 2 full tide cycles it was interesting to see how much water comes in and goes out.  The landscape is almost unrecognizable at either end of the spectrum.

Wed, 3/22 - Walburg Creek to Thunderbolt Marine, Savannah, GA (33.4nm). We were all anxious to get to Hell Gate (near Ossabaw Sound) at hightide, or face perhaps as low as 4' of water.  We had to go 20 miles and hightide was around 10:00 am.

• Leave It To Wally had their anchor up by 8:00 - assisted by several dolphins circling the hull! Port-A-Gee followed, and we enjoyed a smooth crossing of St. Catherines Sound.  What a difference a day makes!
• Our timing of Hell Gate was perfect, we saw 14+' of water, and crossed Ossabaw Sound on smooth water.
• We arrived at Thunderbolt Marine at 1:15 to find the Dockmaster on the dock and ready to help us tie.  The rain that had been with us all morning was ending, and it turned into a beautiful day.
• Loopers had taken over the marina:

• Port-A-Gee
• Leave It To Wally
• Sea Breeze
• Volition
• Irish Hurricane
• Sea Turtle
• Aluya
• KARL arrived on Saturday, in time to enjoy a meal with us downtown.

Thurs/Sat, 3/23-25 - Savannah:  Another great stop on the East Coast. Thurs - Friday we were busy taking care of business:

• Brian did an oil/filter change
• Diver came and changed out anodes
• I defrosted freezer
• We used the courtesy car to get prescriptions and groceries
• Laundry
• Runs - very friendly run/walk through modest Thunderbolt neighborhood, and by Savannah State University
• Docktails
• Friday night was date night with the crews of Leave It To Wally & Volition.
• We Ubered into downtown Savannah for a lovely dinner at Vic's on the River;
• Walked to Colonial Park Cemetery to meet our guide, LeRoy for a Ghost Tour!
• It didn't quite live up to the spooky hype, but it was a beautiful night walking through Savannah and learning about some of its macabre history.
• However, LeRoy did have evidence of an apparition lurking at the top the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist - No denying the spirit world is among us!!

• On Saturday, we Ubered into town and enjoyed the Old Town Trolley Tour to learn more about the unique city's history.
• We walked past a Barber Shop, and the spirits grabbed Brian for a spontaneous trim - I guess my conjuring worked this time!

• The river front is bustling with tourists and huge ships.
• There are several ancient and awkward staircases between street level and river front - they were clearly designed long before the idea of ADA compliance.

Thunderbolt Marine:

• 
  Savannah was a great stop, enhanced by our host marina.
• Dockmasters ran their tails off meeting the needs of their guests.  Many times, their assistance was offered without a request.
• Thunderbolt is a huge marina with a boatyard filled with impressive yachts, but the transient dock is set apart from the yard.
• Floating docks - which we REALLY appreciate due to the 8'+ tides!
• Courtesy car
• Shower & laundry rooms were fantastic.
• Single-user shower rooms were clean and well-appointed
• (2) washers ($1.75, (2) dryers ($1.50)
• The location is 5 miles from Savannah, but everything you would need is within a mile or 2.
• Gated & secured by code
• WiFi
• Comfortable, screened boaters lounge
• We were told that warm Krispy Kreme donuts were served every day, but I guess that has stopped - just as well!

Happy Birthday, Brett on 3/24 & Kaleigh on 3/25 - We're really missing celebrating with you!

Sun., 3/26 - Savannah to Hilton Head Island (24.2nm) - It was moving day for most of the Loopers who enjoyed the hospitality of Thunderbolt Marine for a couple of days.

• Diesel fuel was $4.49/gal, and it appeared that prices would rise with our assent north.  We topped off the tank and headed out to the Wilmington River towards Hilton Head Island, under cloud cover and moderate temperatures.
• It's worth mentioning, that we were WAKED by a huge sportfish, Lonesome Dove V. Stuff went flying out of cabinets, it was crazy.
• No radio call out, no slow down - UGH, so rude and potentially dangerous.
• Brian radioed the captain exchanged their "thoughts" on 68!
• Our buddy boats continued up the ICW, but we pulled into Skull Creek Harbor on Hilton Head Island.  We hope, and expect, to rejoin them along the way.
• Our crossing of the Savannah River also included a border crossing into South Carolina - Another State!
• This stop had been on my list since we began the trip because I have fond memories of family vacations on Hilton Head in the 90's.
• The marinas that I remember visiting for dinner or excursions were pretty pricey, so we opted for the more moderately priced Skull Creek Harbor.
• Unfortunately, the marina is located in a gated community and the nearest restaurant was 2 miles away.
• No bicycles, or courtesy car.
• The overcast day contributed to our decision to just relax and enjoy our beautiful surroundings near Pickney Island.
• We had planned on staying on Hilton Head Island for another full day, but the logistics of our location, and being underwhelmed by Skull Creek Harbor, we decided to go to an anchorage for the evening.
• I didn't even take any pics. I'm really bummed that this stop turned out to be such a disappointment, oh well, lots of good stuff ahead!

LEG STATS:

Miles: 163 Nautical Miles (25.8, 24.5, 36, 19.1, 33.4, 24.2)

Locks: 0

Marinas: (3) Jekyll Island, Thunderbolt/Savannah, Skull Creek/Hilton Head

Anchorages: (3) Cumberland Island, Crescent River, Walburg Creek