2/1 - 2/13/2023 - St. Pete Beach to Ft. Myers

Wed, February 1, 2023 - South Pasadena to Otter Key (34.6NM) We spent the first part of the week preparing for our departure, laundry, groceries, fuel (for the dinghy and generator), but alas, we still had to wait for the tide to come up so we could get out of our slip and through the skinny channel.  Around 10:30 the water level was up enough for us to untie the lines.  It felt really good to be back on the water.  We had not seen a dolphin the entire time we were in Pasadena, but they were at the entrance to bid us farewell!

Pasadena Marina
  • It was a perfect sailing day, low winds, calm water, comfortable temps. As we approached Tampa
    Sunshine Skyway Bridge

    Bay and the Sunshine Skyway Bridge we both commented on how much bigger these bodies of water are than they are shown on the chart!
    • We congratulated ourselves on the good decision to leave before the winds kick up over the weekend.  
    •  We nodded to Tom Brady as we crossed Tampa Bay on the day of his 2nd retirement announcement.
  • We cruised through the familiar cities of Anna Maria, Bradenton Beach, Longboat Key, across Sarasota Bay until our final destination for the night, Otter Key anchorage.
    • As soon as we dropped the anchor, we noticed a majestic Osprey in the tree above us.
    • About 30 minutes later, a guided nature tour on kayaks came by. Sensing another freeloader opportunity, I listened intently to catch the naturalist's spiel.  First, he confirmed that the Osprey was indeed watching over its nest nearby.
      • Then, he gave a very compelling argument for the Osprey to be the US National Bird, in lieu of the Bald Eagle; something about Osprey being monogamous and NOT EATING the nesting young of other species!
      • I also caught a little bit about the wreck that was on needlessly on the charts, because it protruded out of the water about 3 feet, right next to us.  Turns out it is a sunken steam dredger that was hired by the Ringling Bros . . . then they got too far for me to hear anymore!
  • We had a few beers in the cockpit while taking in the beautiful setting, buffered by mangrove on
    one side, and homes on the other.  We toasted the day as the sun sunk into the gulf.

Thurs, Feb 2 - Otter Key (Sarasota) to Cayo Costa State Park (45.5NM) We weighed anchor around 11:00 a.m. and headed out for another beautiful, sunny day in calm seas.  The ICW through Sarasota and Siesta Key provided lots of scenery both natural and man-made.
  • Around 1:00 we approached the 97-year old Blackburn Swing Bridge.  I'm sure many view the bridge's measly 9' clearance as a hinderance, but I was charmed by it.  Brian hailed the bridgetender, who was a delightful woman who assured us she would clear the pedestrians and swing the bridge open for our passage.  She had to walk out and spin the bridge 180-degrees. As we went through, I yelled up to her that I thought she had a cool job.  She replied back, "yes, it's fun!"    
Blackburn Swing Bridge
  • Just when we thought our day could not get better, we stopped for fuel at Crow's Nest at the Venice jetty.  Marinas don't have a tall, illuminated signs indicating their pricing, so it's always a surprise!  (We can consult the Waterway Guide, but it's not always up to date).
    • Welp, it was the highest we've paid so for - and hopefully forever - $6.35/gallon!  If you get more than 50 gallons, they give a generous .10 discount; which was offset by the $15 charge for a pump out. Oh well, we're still grateful we are able to do this trip, even if it means spending our children's inheritance!
  • Our attention was soon given to beauty of Lemon Bay.
    • Only to be faced with another mood swing as we approached Garparilla Sound.  We were beginning to see the familiar post-hurricane blue tarps on roofs, and a lot of the vegetation was stripped and brown.
    • Soon we were in Charlotte Harbor - annnnd back to repeating Loop miles again!
      • We've visited Pelican Bay / Cayo Costa State Park a number of times, both on our boat and as guests on others.  Unfortunately, Ian's rapture forced the closure of the park, so we couldn't walk through.  We could, however, drop our anchor and enjoy the surroundings. 
    • Loopers!  We're finally back with Loopers!  We immediately, noticed Ron & Linda on Gypsy Soul as we entered Pelican Bay.  We last met them in Paris, TN for cocktails aboard Last Item.  They came by on their dinghy for a reunion.
Fri / Sat, Feb 3-4, Pelican Bay / Cayo Costa State Park.  All of Cap's weather apps said it was going to start blowing and not quit for a while - better get in the dinghy and check out the place before the winds kick up.
  • We cruised around and then beached the dinghy to join Linda & Ron for a walk along the beach.
    • We walked and talked under the full sun and calm seas.  After about 1/2 mile, we decided to do an about face;
    • Within 3 minutes, Linda said, "look at the sky behind us".  Holy Moly, big, black, billowing clouds were coming off the Gulf.  We hightailed it back to the dinghy and were on board Port-a-Gee just as the skies opened up.
    • Then a rainbow came out as if nothing happened - LOL
  • As predicted, the winds kicked up, and up, and up, 30mph with higher gusts pushed the water against the hull and rocked and rolled us until Sunday morning.
Sun, Feb 5, Pelican Bay to Captiva / Tween Waters (13.4NM). Thankfully, sometime after dawn, the winds and water began to calm down.  Anchors aweigh! Off we go to Captiva.

Departing Pelican Bay - Photo: Gypsy Soul
  • The ruins and brown landscape along the way had us rethinking going there, but Tween Waters said that they survived Ian and were fully operational.
  • After tying up to the dock, we got our bathing suits on and enjoyed some pool drinks. Then came back and used the fantastic shower rooms to spruce up for dinner at Old Captiva House, located on the property.  It was a lovely treat after 3 days on the hook.
Mon, Feb 6 - Tween Waters. The marina had a fleet of brand-new bicycles that you can use simply by filling out a waiver.  We peddled 5 miles towards Sanibel, and every 1/2 revealed more and more devastation.  We can only assume that continued until the end of the island.  A little more than 4 months of clean up allows for passage on roads and the bike path, but there is a whole lot more to do before the island can be deemed recovered.

  • After backtracking 5 miles we continued to the end/hub of Captiva.  It was a different picture at
    that end, but the wounds were still healing.  A handful of businesses were open.  The Mucky Duck just opened the week before, and they had a full house.  We stopped for lunch and are happy to report they are doing well.  Others will follow in time.
  • Our ability to visit Captiva 4 months after Ian was incredible.  Remarkably, Tween Waters Island Resort suffered, comparatively, little damage.
    • The roofs of most of their buildings had a membrane over them, clearly a Band-Aid while the long process of repair takes place.
      • Tween Waters Island Resort
    • The pools, restaurant and bathhouses did not show any signs of damage.
    • We enjoyed talking with our dock neighbor, Jack on Grand Desire.  Miraculously, Grand Desire survived Ian, along with others at St. Charles Yacht Club in Ft. Myers.
Tues, Feb 7 - Captiva to Ft. Myers (33.4NM). Skinny water at low tide forced us to stay tied to the dock until 1:00 p.m., when there was finally enough water in the channel to get back to the ICW.  Slips were few and far between along the Ian ravaged Ft. Myers area.  We passed several marinas that had us on waiting lists for Winter 2023, but it was not to be:

  • While the day and conditions were perfect, we couldn't help but be disturbed by the brown vegetation and destruction of homes the whole way :(
  • Sweetwater Landing Marina is on the Caloosahatchee River and came through Ian very well.  It took several calls before we were able to secure a transient slip.
  • We arrived at 4:45 and were glad to see Hunter waiting at our slip to help us tie up.  Hunter lifted the Cutwater and set her on the trailer when we came through in 2021.  He's a real professional and a great guy.
    • Despite our fondness of Hunter, we had to complain about our dock assignment, right in
      front of the busiest restaurant in the area, The Boat House.  This location was also about 1/4 mile walk to the shower rooms and laundry.
    • After 2 nights in front of the Boat House, Hunter came through for us, and we were moved to the "marina" side, yay!!
  • Because Sweetwater was the only stop we were able to make in the Ft. Myers area, we made arrangements to meet up with lots of friends, all of whom came down to see us.
    • Matt & Kathy Murphy
    • Celine Leonard & her Fiancé, Gary
    • Celeste & Lloyd Sollers
      • Lloyd came back to take us to Publix & Ace Hardware - saving lives!!
    • Ron & Libby Johnson
    • Marty & Brenda Colburn
    • Dave & Stephanie Stahl
    • Bob Weirick & Kathleen Monaghan
      • Also spent some time with current and past loopers:
      • Marc & Lorre on KARL
      • Matt on Seaview
      • Ted Alt on Bullship
  • We joined the live-aboards and transients in the Boaters' lounge to watch the Chiefs narrowly beat the Eagles in Super Bowl LVII.  It was a good game, and we enjoyed the camaraderie of marina dwellers.
  • Sweetwater Landing is a great marina for the following reasons:
    • Fresh/brackish water
    • Nice staff
    • Excellent boaters' lounge/shower/laundry
    • Good docks with long fingers
    • Wifi was pretty good
    • 1/2 mile to grocery, etc
    • Adjacent to the Boat House
    • We didn't need it, but they will lift you and let you work on your own boat in their yard.
      • Negatives:
      • The traffic on SR31/Babcock Road is really loud!
      • The surrounding area is not pedestrian/bicycle-friendly.
Sweetwater Landing

LEG STATS:

Miles: 126.9 Nautical Miles (34.6, 45.5, 13.4, 33.4)

Locks: 0

Marinas: (2) Tween Waters (2 nights), Sweetwater (7 nights)

Anchorages: (2) Otter Key, Cayo Costa State Park/Pelican Bay (2) nights

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