11/12 - 11/19/22 - Orange Beach, AL to Carrabelle, FL

Sat, Nov. 12 - Orange Beach to Spectre Island Anchorage (51.5 nm).  We peeled ourselves away from our beloved Wharf around 10:00 a.m. and set course for Fort McRee Anchorage.  We've been talking about going to this anchorage since our trip in 2020, so we were excited to finally go.

• Guess, what?  It was Blue Angels Homecoming - marking their last performance of the year.
• Guess where E V E R Y O N E goes to get a good look?  Fort McRee!  Oh well, we can appreciate this spectator sport.  We enjoyed the aeronautical acrobats as we cruised by.  We executed Plan B and set our course for 40 miles East to Spectre Island near Fort Walton.

• BIG DEAL:  As we passed Fort McRee, we finally found "new-to-us" water!
• In November 2020, we suspended our trip when we reached Orange Beach, putting the Cutwater on her trailer and to storage in Cape Coral.
• When we returned to Florida in February 2021, we trailered the Cutwater to Punta Gorda and finished that year in Stuart, Florida. Soooo, from Fort McRee to Charlotte Harbor, Punta Gorda we will be recording new Loop miles - Whoo Hoo!
• Hopefully, we'll complete the trip in 2023.
• It was a gloomy day and the strong north winds brought in a cold front.  We arrived at Spectre Island around 4:00 p.m.  This day truly felt like November, so the beef stew in the crockpot was a perfect accent to the day.  Spectre is a great anchorage behind a tiny island, giving us protection from the north and south.  Another Looper was already hooked in for the night, Knot Dreaming (40' Kha Shing Overseas).  We were also accompanied by some brave campers on the island.  It was windy and cold all night!

Sun, Nov. 13 - Spectre Island Anchorage to Hogtown Bayou (25nm).  Oh man, it got COLD overnight, we couldn't believe those hearty tent campers were still hanging in there!

• It took a while to set up the generator and space heater making it safe for me to emerge from under the blankets!  NE winds were still blowing so we spent the morning discussing "go/no-go".  We finally decided to GO - YAY!  "Are We Gloucesterman?!"  We consulted with Knot Dreaming, who wisely, decided to stay at Spectre for another night.
• It was pretty cool coming into the Emerald Coast of Fort Walton/Destin/Sandestin.  It's off-season, so not much activity on this blustery day.

• At 12:45 pm we arrived at the mouth of Choctawhatchee Bay's11-kn North winds.  We poked Port-A-Gee's nose in and rehashed the "go/no-go" discussion.  We went - YAY! "Are We Gloucesterman?!" (at some point this is going to come back to bite me!)
• It was a little lumpy, and the shifting winds gave us an "opportunity" to experience taking waves from several different directions.  Port-A-Gee performed well, and we enjoyed the afternoon crossing the Bay while listening to the Bears' stunning loss to the Lions (31-30).
• At 3:00, we arrived at Hogtown Bayou - it was a good 3 miles off the GICW, but still a huge open bay. Not the kind of anchorages we were accustomed to on the river system.
• Once we dropped the hook and surveyed our surroundings, we felt pretty good about the marshland that served as a barrier, along with the shoreline.  We were treated to a gorgeous, unobstructed sunset.

Mon/Tues Nov 14-15 - Hogtown Bayou to Emerald Harbor Marina, Panama City FL (Watson Bayou) (49 NM). Got an early start! Anchor was up and we were making our way back to Choctawhatchee Bay by 7:30 a.m.  Our plan was to cruise with Rick and Christi on Inked Mermaid to Pearl Bayou.  Storms and high winds were predicted for Tuesday, so we decided to tuck into Emerald Harbor Marina until Wednesday and then catch up with Inked Mermaid.

• Monday's cruise was pristine!  The air was cool, but it was warm inside Port-a-Gee's pilothouse.  The water was like glass and the dolphins were prolific.
• Mini Zoo on the bank of the Grand Canyon at mm267.4

• As we were crossing West Bay, Panama City, Brian noticed a "rowing vessel" named Evelyn Mae come up on the AIS (automatic identification system) - interesting!
• I started googling, and quickly learned that it was Ellen Magellan rowing AROUND THE WORLD. Ellen Magellan Expeditions

• Hurricane Michael devastated this area in 2018, and many of the marinas have not been rebuilt.  Emerald Harbor Marina was rebuilt in 2022 and is tucked into a well-protected basin well off the channel, but it was immediately clear, "Dorothy, we're not at the Wharf anymore!"  The Emerald Harbor website boasted a "newly rebuilt marina with 6 dedicated transient slips with plenty of power, water and a pump out at every slip, and a courtesy car."
• 
  The new docks part was accurate, the rest - not so much.  This is a self-serve marina, as there is NO STAFF on site - at all.  The pump out is a huge portable apparatus sitting under the bathhouse deck that would be very difficult, if not impossible, to bring down to the dock (makes you wonder how the live-aboards are managing this - hmmmm).
• The shower and bathrooms were pretty good, but again no staff so it's up to guests to keep it clean and stocked with hand towels.  I found a full box in the laundry room - on the top shelf - ugh!
• The "vacant/in use" signs are a great idea - didn't stop someone from trying to barge in both times I was in there - double ugh.

• I went for a run through the residential area behind the marina. It is a modest, working-class area with cute coastal homes. Most of the commercial properties have been abandoned. Again, recovery from Hurricane Michael has been slow. One restaurant was thriving though, Gene's Oyster Bar, unfortunately, it was only open Thurs - Sun.
•  When we were tying up, we were greeted by Jim and Lisa, crew of North Star.  They just completed their loop!  They graciously volunteered to take us to Walmart for provisions (because the courtesy car is not a real thing).

Wed, Nov. 16 Emerald Harbor Marina to Pearl Bayou Anchorage (4.8nm)

Despite my complaints, Emerald Marina was a good place to wait out the wind, rain and cold.  Mid-day we cut ties and made the quick trip across St. Andrews Bay/East Bay to finally meet up with Inked Mermaid!

Inked Mermaid

• We met Rick and Christi (Inked Mermaid) when they were doing their first Loop in 2020/2021.  They are a great couple, and since they are currently on their 3rd time around, they have a library of Loop knowledge; especially the best anchorages which they utilize more than marinas.  They are quite comfortable on their 44 Endeavor Powercat.
• Inked Mermaid Encounters:
• September 2020, Green Turtle Bay, KY
• October 2020, The Wharf, Orange Beach, FL
• March 2021, Key West, FL
• September 2021, Port Washington, WI
• September 2022, Green Turtle Bay, KY
• November 2022, Panama City, FL
• Pearl Bayou is a GREAT anchorage, well off the channel and protected on all sides.  Tyndell Air Force Base sits at the entrance - they play the Star-Spangled Banner at sunset!

Thurs, Nov 17 - Pearl Bayou to Apalachicola (Scipio Creek) (50.2nm). Another cold morning at anchor.  I waited patiently while Brian got the generator going so we could have heat and coffee!  I didn't come to Florida to be cold!!!

• We pulled the anchor around 9:30, passed Tyndall Air Force Base and encountered Ellen Magellan rowing Evelyn Mae east of the Dupont Highway Bridge.  God love her!

• We passed Nautic Venture (39 Mainship) and kept in contact with them all day.  Fred & Sidonia threw the throttle down after leaving Destin, cruising at 20+ knots until they overtook us on Lake Wimico.

LAKE WIMICO

• The 3 of us wound up in Apalachicola at different marinas:
• Port-a-Gee chose Scipio Creek Marina
• Scipio is a working boat yard, but they have transient slips, a restaurant, and shower room.  We need to get used to "old Florida" vintage marinas!  The staff was excellent, and definitely make up for any insufficiencies in the property.
• Last Item chose Apalachicola Marina
• Nautic Venture chose Apalachicola City Dock

• It was a cool but sunny day cruising the GICW.  The landscape changed frequently on this 50-mile trip.  From large, shallow bays to narrow channels, all of it beautiful!
• Sometimes it was difficult to find the channel markers because evidently, they are also a public restroom for sea birds!

• Lake Wimico is home to coverts of Coots - all clustered together.

Fri, Nov 18 - Apalachicola - We decided to hang out in Apalachicola for a day and visit with my cousin, Karen and her husband Doug, who live in nearby Eastpoint.

• I enjoyed one the most scenic runs thus far. 1st mile took me though the shrimp boat yard and then a planked estuary - where something hissed at me!  2nd mile took me through historic commercial side of Apalachicola, and 3rd mile was along the bay.  I stopped by to say hello to the crew of Nautic Adventure.
• The pelicans glided past us all day long - I'm just fascinated by them!

• Brian and I redeemed our complimentary cocktail at the 1/2 Shell, the on-site marina, and then Karen and Doug picked us up and gave us a driving tour of the really cool town.
• Fred & Sidonia joined us at Hole in the Wall for some delicious Oysters, then we went across the street for dinner at the Owl Tap Room - a great evening!

Sat, Nov. 19 - Apalachicola to Carrabelle (C Quarters) (25.9nm).  Woke to a cool, cloudy day, but we were excited that Karen and Doug staged their car at Carabelle and returned to Apalachicola to join us on our next leg.  We enjoyed their company as we crossed Apalachicola Bay on dolphin watch.

• Around 1:30 we arrived at C Quarters Marina which will be our home for at least a week while we wait for a weather window to cross the Gulf of Mexico.  I wonder if they celebrate Thanksgiving in Carrabelle?

LEG STATS:

Miles: (206.4) 51.5, 25, 49, 4.8, 50.2, 25.9

Locks: (0)

Marinas: (3) Emerald Harbor (2 nights), Scipio Creek (2 nights)

Anchorages: (3) Spectre Island, Hogtown Bayou, Pearl Bayou