3/27 - 4/6/23 Hilton Head Island, SC to Charleston, SC

Mon, 3/27 - Hilton Head Island, SC to South Beaufort Anchorage, SC (14.9nm). We shortened our stay on Hilton Head Island and opted for a beautiful anchorage in Beaufort, SC.

  • First, we have to cross Port Royal Sound, one of the largest openings to the Ocean we've seen.  We were thankful for the calm seas and gorgeous sun sparkling off the water.  It was breathtaking - my camera lens can't fully capture it.
  • Port Royal Sound marks 1/2 way of our Loop - Racine, WI to Hilton Head Island, SC - only 3,000 more miles to go!
Tues, 3/28 - South Beaufort Anchorage to Lady's Island Marina (3.1nm).  We arose to cloudy skies in a quiet anchorage, so we decided to just hang out and enjoy the setting.  Also, save Cap some trouble by arriving at slack tide - win/win.
  • Aaron greeted us at the dock and helped us tie up - he could not have been nicer.  Gotta love that southern hospitality!
    • Aaron gave us the lay of the land, showers, laundry, codes, historical sites in the area, restaurants . . .  spa on sight, what's that you say??  We'll be checking that out more later!
  • We reconnected with Dan & Chris (Long Gone 2) - last we saw them was in Clearwater Beach.
  • KARL joined us.
  • We met Dan & Tanya on Crimson Tug.  We cruised with the former owners, Marvin & Nancy in 2021.
  • Thurs, March 30 - Cubs Opening Day with a 4-0 win over the Brewers - WHOOO HOOO!
  • Beaufort was another great East Coast stop; we stayed a week and enjoyed all that was available in walking/biking distance:
  • Wednesday was "work" day, but Thursday was "tour day!  Brian unfolded his ebike and I grabbed one of the courtesy bicycles from the marina and we rode about a mile over the Bridge into historic Beaufort.
    • The Welcome Center is housed in the brick and tabby arsenal constructed in 1877.  The informative hosts gave us a book with, among other things, 41 points of interest called out on a map.
      • Reconstruction Era National Historic Park - where we shamefully discovered how little we knew about the role of slaves during and after the Civil War.
      • The McKee / Robert Small House was of particular interest to me.  When we were navigating the river system, Leanne (Journey) gave me a book she had just finished, Trouble The Water, by Rebecca Dwight.  It was a great read - historical fiction about Robert Small's life in Beaufort/Charleston as the son of a slave and future Hero of the Union.  I passed the book along to another Looper, I hope it continues to make its way around.  I highly recommend it.
McKee/Small House(s)
There were so many gorgeous, perfectly restored homes in Beaufort:
    George Moss Stoney House
           
                   Joseph Johnson Hous

Even those awaiting restoration are fascinating:
  • Hollywood has made its mark on Beaufort:
    • The Tildalholm (1853) is a privately-owned historic home that served as a Civil War hospital.
    • It was used as the setting of The Big Chill, and The Great Santini.
    • You can see the house from Lady's Island Marina - directly across Factory Creek.
      • The Lewis Reeve Sams house was used in the Prince of Tides.
  • Spanish Moss Trail - 10 miles of 2-lane, concrete paved trail following the old Port Royal Railroad (1870). The trail crosses expansive wetlands, and through the backyards of stately neighborhoods, shaded by live oaks - thick with Spanish Moss.  It also crosses the entrance to Beaufort Marine Corp Air Station.
      • It's about a 1-mile ride through town to get on it, but there is a plan for future expansion to town.
    • Whitehall Park is about 1/4 mile from the marina, it consumes about 10 acres, surrounded by wetlands, pines and live oaks - located at the base of the Beaufort Bridge.
      • I looped it several times to cobble 3-miles together - it was shaded and pretty.
  • Restaurants:
    • Plums (southern food)
    • Luther's Rare & Well Done - We celebrated Dolly's birthday!
      • Housed in a historic building (1884) facing Bay Street on the front and the waterfront on back.  Also known as Luther's Pharmacy & Bananas
        • Recently, it has been the subject of unwanted publicity related to the Murdaugh family legal problems.
    • Dockside - at the entrance to Lady's Island Marina
    • Filling Station - short walk towards Beaufort
  • Lady's Island Marina:
    • Tom, the proprietor and Aaron, dockmaster, are both very engaging and helpful.  The marina has a real sense of family/community.
    • (3) single-use shower rooms
    • (2) washers - free; (2) dryers, $2.50
    • Floating docks
    • Scheduled pump outs 2 days/week
      • No fuel
    • Courtesy bicycles
    • Courtesy Car - (Publix and other stores nearby, even walkable if so inclined)
    • Several onsite tenants:
      • Canvas shop
      • Salon
      • Esthetician
      • Massage Therapist - Wanda Godley gave me a restorative 60-minute, deep tissue massage - glorious!
    • Boater's lounge was under construction.
    • The setting was perfect for sunset viewing.
      • Marshlands lining Factory Creek = noseeums, ugh

Tues, April 4 - Lady's Island/Beaufort to Charleston, SC Safe Harbor - Charleston City (57.4nm). The noseeums ensured a quick departure from the dock at 7:30 a.m. The passage to Charleston was perfect, the water was still, and dolphins were on full display.
  • Around 4:15p.m. Charleston Harbor came into view - wow, we hadn't seen a harbor that big since we left Chicago!  Lots of huge yachts/ships lined the famous 1,530' Mega-dock.
  • Dock hand was there to catch our lines and help us pull Port-A-Gee in while fighting a strong current.
    • We were grateful for the inside dock - at the end, so we had both a protected and unobstructed view.
    • We were also greeted by fellow Illinois Cubs Fans, Tim & Lana aboard Persistence.
  • Safe Harbor Charleston City has a unique feature - a dedicated van that goes downtown every hour until 5:00 p.m.  When you're ready to return, they're just a phone call away - until 7:00 p.m.
    • The whole operation is top notch - 4 stars for:
      • Staff
      • Amenities
      • Shower
      • Laundry (I didn't use)
  • We spent 2 days in Charleston trying to eat, drink and absorb as much history as possible.
    • Bonus - Claire Johnson lives in Charleston and came by to see us!  Claire is the daughter of our dear friends, Ron & Libby Johnson - who we met at a Looper Rendezvous in 2016 and have been friends with ever since!
  • Thurs, 4/6 - our 5th wedding anniversary, our celebration included:
    • Brian changing out our fuel filters - always work before play!
    • Lyft ride to Patriot's Point, Mount Pleasant:
      • Ferry to Ft. Sumpter
      • Home of USS Yorktown, retired aircraft carrier
      • Viet Nam Experience
    • Delicious dinner at Hank's Seafood
      • I tried to get reservations at numerous restaurants (both downtown and nearby islands) - nothing available before 9:30 p.m.
      • Someone told us that seating is usually available at the bar for walk-ins.
      • Hank's has a "community table" that seats 14.  2 spots were available for us!  We had a great time talking with the other folks at the table.  I'd do that again!
  • Grill 225 Rooftop for a nightcap.  Sitting on top of the swanky Market Pavilion Hotel.
    • They had real cloth hand towels in the lady's' room!

LEG STATS:

Miles: 75.4 NM (14.9, 3.1, 57.4)
Locks:  0
Marinas:  2 (Lady's Island, Safe Harbor Charleston)
Anchorages: Beaufort South

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