4/19 - 22 /23 Columbia, NC to Norfolk VA - DISMAL SWAMP

Wed, 4/19/23 - MY 60TH BIRTHDAY! - Columbia, NC to Elizabeth City, NC (29.7nm).

• I don't see many sunrises, so I lingered for a couple of minutes to welcome the day and reflect on my gratitude for my mental and physical health as I begin my 7th decade.

• All of the Alligator River guests, were underway by 7:30 a.m. hoping to take advantage of the morning calm seas to cross Albermarle Sound, which has a reputation for being "sporty".
• 
  One hour in, and land was barely visible behind us, and not at all in front of us.
• Before long, we were churning around in confused seas.
• What began as 2' swells for the west, soon gave way to 1' waves from the north.  Then, the winds shifted, and we had 2' waves from the north
• Port-A-Gee got a good dousing of brackish water.

• Before heading into Albemarle, a decision has to be made about which northern route to take:
• Virgina Cut up the North River and parallel with the Atlantic Ocean; or
• The Pasquotank River towards the Dismal Swamp.
• This is a much-discussed topic among Loopers because the Dismal Swamp has cost lots of captains their props.

• After much deliberation, we chose to cruise the historic Dismal Swamp.
• Construction of the canal was commissioned through a joint venture of wealthy Virginians, to include George Washington, for 2 purposes:  to harvest lumber and to connect the Chesapeake Bay to Albermarle Sound.
• The Dismal Swamp Company took advantage of enslaved labor to hand dig the canal.  It took 12 years to complete, opening in 1805.
• After making the turn onto the Pasquotank River, the seas calmed down in time to expose the minefield of crab pots lining both sides of the channel!

Moondance IV crossing Albermarle Sound

• We were glad to see Elizabeth City, NC coming into focus around 11:00 a.m.
• Elizabeth City has several free dock opportunities.  Actually, I don't think there is a place to pay for one!
• City Docks - didn't look that great.
• Jennette Bros - Which we chose. It was immediately to our port after crossing under the bridge, and very close to town.  No power, water or amenities, but this dock has the unique feature of being on private property that is locked at night - not that we felt vulnerable in this quiet town.

• Mid-Atlantic Christian College - Our first choice, but there was not room. Our friends on Melody were able to secure a spot though.
• The nice folks that run the MACC dock came over to Jennette Bros with a welcome bag.
• Our buddy boat, Moondance IV was concerned about the bridge noise affecting their pup, so they went to Lamb's Marina (I guess there is a place to pay for a dock)
• John & Kim on Kayak arrived in the afternoon and tied up at Jennette's with us.
• 
   We took a walk around town and visited several restaurants. 
• Seven Sounds Brewing, on the riverfront.
• My birthday dinner was at Hoppin' Johnz - it was pretty good!
• We were back on the boat by 7:00 p.m. to prepare for the Dismal Swamp!

Thurs, 4/20/23 - Elizabeth City, NC to South Mills, NC (20.2nm).  We had discussed an early departure to join Moondance IV for the 8:30 am. lock opening . . . but he who procrastinates waits for the 11:00 lock opening!

• Kayak and Port-A-Gee left the free dock to align with the 11:00 a.m. lock and bridge opening.
• We monitored and communicated with Moondance IV as they navigated the Swamp.
• The channel leading up to the Dismal Swamp was, well, swampy & narrow - we wondered if we were already on it!
• Port-A-Gee, Kayak, and a delivery captain/crew moving a Grand Banks back north, arrived at the South Mill lock at 10:55 a.m. and ascended 8 feet to the Dismal Swamp.
• About 1/4 mile after the lock is a bridge that needs to be raised - the lockmaster handles that too.  She locked up through, got in her truck, drove to the bridge, and raised it for our passage.
• 4 more miles is the Pontoon Swing Bridge - it just magically opened as we approached.  These folks know what they're doing :)

• Immediately to our starboard was the Dismal Swamp Visitor Center free dock.  After Port-A-Gee and Kayak were tied up, we went our separate ways to investigate the area.
• The welcome center is aptly named, the women were very proud of being the face of the Dismal Swamp and provided us with lots of interesting information.
• Office had lots of brochures and souvenirs.
• Bathrooms were clean and airconditioned.
• Free wifi (but pretty weak)
• Free dock is all get - no power or water
• Across the pontoon bridge is the Dismal Swamp State Park 
• Apparently these two entities operate independently.
• The state park has a small museum with lots of taxidermy, and ecological displays.
• There are several walking trails.  We walked the planked one and passed on the dirt trail.
• They rent bicycles, but you can't take them on the trails or off the property - not sure what that's all about.  Ride them in the parking lot??

THAT REFLECTIVE WATER!

• Around 2:00, we all decided to stay at the dock for the evening and tackle the dismal swamp in the morning.
• It was a lovely afternoon sitting at a covered picnic table, where several people came by and chatted with us.

Fri, 4/21/23 - South Mills, NC to Norfolk, VA/Waterside Marina - Dismal Swamp (24.5nm).  Crews of Kayak and Port-a-Gee agreed to depart around 7:30 a.m., to time our arrival with the 11:00 a.m. lock & bridge opening at the other end of the Dismal Swamp - 20 miles @ 5mph = approx. 4 hours.

896 Facebook "Likes" & Counting!

• It was a beautiful day, just enough sun to keep us comfortable.
• One of the first things I noticed, was the mirror reflection in the water.  I had to refocus my vision a couple of times because the trees appeared to be both above and below the water.
• It was a very narrow channel, and we were glad we didn't encounter anyone making a southern passage.  I really don't know how that would have worked.
• We were warned of the deadheads lurking under the water - we did have 2 minor bumps, but nothing hit our props.
• About 3/4 into the trip, we saw a sailboat ahead of us.  Later we learned that they came through the night before and spent the night at Douglas Landing free dock (mm18.3).
• It did not look very inviting to us, but to each his own.
• Kayak stayed back about a mile and we both kept about a 5mph pace - so as to not stir anything up from the bottom.
• We crossed into the Old Dominion State - YAY!

• I kept my eyes peeled for living versions of the taxidermy critters, but I had to settle for geese and turtles.
• A chorus of birds could be heard, but they kept themselves hidden as they sang their tunes.

• 
  We arrived at the Deep Creek Bridge a bit early, so we tied up to the wall with the sailboat, Aphrodisiac.
• Kayak arrived just in time for the bridge opening.
• The Northern end of the Dismal Swamp has the same bridge/lock situation as the southern end.  The lockmasters have double duty.
• By 12:00 we were celebrating our safe passage of the Dismal Swamp - phew!

• Around 1:30 we were cruising through the Norfolk Navy Shipyard.  Holy, Moly those ships are HUGE.
• Secuity was tight! Not sure what that weapon is, but we weren't going to get close enough to find out!

• We were still lifting our jaws off the ground when the Norfolk skyline and Waterside Marina came into view.

• After the dockhand helped up tie up, we stepped off the boat, and could not believe how close we were to the Navy Ships on our starboard side.

• On our Port side was the City's thriving waterfront district.  We wasted no time checking it out.  John & Kim on Kayak had the same idea, and soon we found ourselves debriefing our day over cocktails.
• Norfolk is also home to NATO, and we arrived in time for the annual NATO Festival.  We couldn't help but enjoy the parade - it was in our front yard!  We missed the newest member, Sweden, but we caught lots of others, including Portugal and USA!

• Our walk around town included a visit to the General Douglas Memorial, and Nauticus Maritime Museum.

• Several Loopers arrived during our stay, it was great to catch up with Gold Loopers - Irish Hurricane and Gemini
• Waterside Marina:
  • Its best feature is its location - right on the edge of town surrounded by Navy Ships and Restaurants.
  • Nice, Floating Docks
  • Helpful dockhands
  • Long walk to showers and were pretty basic.  Clean and functional
  • No fuel, laundry, courtesy car

Leg Stats:

Miles: 74.4 (29.7, 20.2, 24.5)

Locks: (2) Dismal Swamp: South Mill, Deep Creek

Marinas: (1)  Waterside in Norfolk

Free Docks:  (2) Jennette Brothers in Elizbeth City, Dismal Swamp Visitors Center

Anchorages: (0)